Hydrangea Arborescens (aka Smooth Hydrangea)
"Annabelle"
The "wild hydrangea," as it is sometimes called, grows abundantly in its native forests of the eastern U.S. where it thrives on the banks of streams and on rocky slopes and in the shady, moist undergrowth. It is not often seen in gardens although it is easy to transplant. However, large pom pom varieties, notably "Annabelle" and "Grandiflora" are very popular and often rival the beauty of the macrophyllas when in bloom.
Unlike the macrophyllas, the hydrangeas in this group are hardier, blooming on new wood and have a suckering habit. The leaves are ovate, not as thick as macrophylla and are colored differently on the underside of the leaf (either white or gray depending on the sub species).
Culture
Hydrangeas are moisture loving plants and will languish in hard soils and full sun. They will flourish in moist, well-drained soils that have been enriched with organic materials. Watering is necessary especially in periods of drought. Plants will wilt when they need watering. Be aware though, that they will also wilt during extreme hot periods even after they have been watered. They will perk back up after the temperatures have cooled in the evening.
Site Selection - These hydrangeas benefit from part sun and shade. Morning or late sun is best with shade provided during the hottest part of the day. Although you can grow it in full shade, blooming will be better with some sun. Northern gardeners can grow this variety in full sun.
Planting - Dig a generous hole, wider than the root ball and add compost, aged manure, leaves, peat moss, etc. to the planting mix. Position the plant so that an inch of the root ball sits above the soil line, fill in with your native soil that has been amended and water well. Surround the plant with 1-2 inches of mulch - leaves and pine needles are excellent choices.
Fertilizing - should be done twice yearly - in late winter or early spring and then again after flowering in late summer. Do not fertilize after August. I use a general 10-10-10 granular fertilizer which I sprinkle around the base of each plant. Liquid fertilizers can also be used and are especially recommended if your plant is suffering from chlorosis (yellowing leaves). Always follow the rules on the fertilizer label and don't over-do it. Too much fertilizer can be harmful and can result in excessive green growth and fewer flowers.
Pruning - Unlike the macrophyllas, the hydrangeas in this group bloom on new wood. So you can cut it back to within one foot of the ground in fall or early spring. Severe pruning done this way will result in larger blooms which sometimes can be a problem because they are difficult to support and flop over after a rain. If you prefer smaller blooms, don't prune the shrub back so drastically. Either way you prune, you can count on blooms.
Keep in mind that the various types of hydrangeas are pruned differently! (For pruning instructions for oakleaf, panicle, and macrophylla hydrangeas, consult the appropriate web pages on this site).
Hardiness
These are the most hardy of hydrangeas and will survive up to zone 3. Click here for the USDA Plant Hardiness Zone Map.
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Unlike the macrophyllas, the hydrangeas in this group are hardier, blooming on new wood and have a suckering habit. The leaves are ovate, not as thick as macrophylla and are colored differently on the underside of the leaf (either white or gray depending on the sub species).
Culture
Hydrangeas are moisture loving plants and will languish in hard soils and full sun. They will flourish in moist, well-drained soils that have been enriched with organic materials. Watering is necessary especially in periods of drought. Plants will wilt when they need watering. Be aware though, that they will also wilt during extreme hot periods even after they have been watered. They will perk back up after the temperatures have cooled in the evening.
Site Selection - These hydrangeas benefit from part sun and shade. Morning or late sun is best with shade provided during the hottest part of the day. Although you can grow it in full shade, blooming will be better with some sun. Northern gardeners can grow this variety in full sun.
Planting - Dig a generous hole, wider than the root ball and add compost, aged manure, leaves, peat moss, etc. to the planting mix. Position the plant so that an inch of the root ball sits above the soil line, fill in with your native soil that has been amended and water well. Surround the plant with 1-2 inches of mulch - leaves and pine needles are excellent choices.
Fertilizing - should be done twice yearly - in late winter or early spring and then again after flowering in late summer. Do not fertilize after August. I use a general 10-10-10 granular fertilizer which I sprinkle around the base of each plant. Liquid fertilizers can also be used and are especially recommended if your plant is suffering from chlorosis (yellowing leaves). Always follow the rules on the fertilizer label and don't over-do it. Too much fertilizer can be harmful and can result in excessive green growth and fewer flowers.
Pruning - Unlike the macrophyllas, the hydrangeas in this group bloom on new wood. So you can cut it back to within one foot of the ground in fall or early spring. Severe pruning done this way will result in larger blooms which sometimes can be a problem because they are difficult to support and flop over after a rain. If you prefer smaller blooms, don't prune the shrub back so drastically. Either way you prune, you can count on blooms.
Keep in mind that the various types of hydrangeas are pruned differently! (For pruning instructions for oakleaf, panicle, and macrophylla hydrangeas, consult the appropriate web pages on this site).
Hardiness
These are the most hardy of hydrangeas and will survive up to zone 3. Click here for the USDA Plant Hardiness Zone Map.
Back to Hydrangeas
Back to Trees & Shrubs