Hydrangea Anomala (aka Climbing Hydrangea)
This is often described as the most beautiful vine in the world. Unfortunately the specimen I had died but I am determined to start a new one this year. The vine is a notoriously slow starter and I think I accidentally killed mine because I forgot about it and was too careless in the area where it was planted. Your patience should be rewarded in many years to come, however, if the vine lives up to the promise of photographs I have seen. Spectacular lacy, creamy white flowers appear in early spring (late April - May) and the glossy heart shaped leaves are also beautiful throughout the growing season. In winter, the woody vines display gnarled, exfoliating bark the color of light toast. The vine clings to structures by aerial roots that attach like those of ivy. I have not read of structural damage caused by climbing hydrangea but it will leave unsightly trail stains if removed. It can spread 50-60 feet.
Culture
Site Selection - Full sun or partial shade. Although it can be grown as a shrub, it looks best with something to climb on, such as a rock or brick wall, a large tree trunk, fences, etc.
Planting - Dig a generous hole, wider than the root ball and add compost, aged manure, leaves, peat moss, etc. to the planting mix. Position the plant so that an inch of the root ball sits above the soil line, fill in with your native soil that has been amended and water well. Surround the plant with 1-2 inches of mulch - leaves and pine needles are excellent choices.
Fertilizing - should be done sparingly while the plant is young. None is needed after the plant matures.
Pruning - No pruning is necessary except to remove dead or damaged wood.
Keep in mind that the various types of hydrangeas are pruned differently! (For pruning instructions for smooth, panicle, oakleaf, and macrophylla hydrangeas, consult the appropriate web pages on this site).
Hardiness
Generally considered hardy to zone 4. Click here for the USDA Plant Hardiness Zone Map.
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This is often described as the most beautiful vine in the world. Unfortunately the specimen I had died but I am determined to start a new one this year. The vine is a notoriously slow starter and I think I accidentally killed mine because I forgot about it and was too careless in the area where it was planted. Your patience should be rewarded in many years to come, however, if the vine lives up to the promise of photographs I have seen. Spectacular lacy, creamy white flowers appear in early spring (late April - May) and the glossy heart shaped leaves are also beautiful throughout the growing season. In winter, the woody vines display gnarled, exfoliating bark the color of light toast. The vine clings to structures by aerial roots that attach like those of ivy. I have not read of structural damage caused by climbing hydrangea but it will leave unsightly trail stains if removed. It can spread 50-60 feet.
Culture
Site Selection - Full sun or partial shade. Although it can be grown as a shrub, it looks best with something to climb on, such as a rock or brick wall, a large tree trunk, fences, etc.
Planting - Dig a generous hole, wider than the root ball and add compost, aged manure, leaves, peat moss, etc. to the planting mix. Position the plant so that an inch of the root ball sits above the soil line, fill in with your native soil that has been amended and water well. Surround the plant with 1-2 inches of mulch - leaves and pine needles are excellent choices.
Fertilizing - should be done sparingly while the plant is young. None is needed after the plant matures.
Pruning - No pruning is necessary except to remove dead or damaged wood.
Keep in mind that the various types of hydrangeas are pruned differently! (For pruning instructions for smooth, panicle, oakleaf, and macrophylla hydrangeas, consult the appropriate web pages on this site).
Hardiness
Generally considered hardy to zone 4. Click here for the USDA Plant Hardiness Zone Map.
Back to Hydrangeas
Back to Trees & Shrubs